Akelarre - seven 3* in one week

I always wanted to be a Bond villain.

Driving up through the winding roads outside San Sebastian to reach Akelarre, you can't help but think that. Stepping out on the terrace to a panoramic view of the sea made it feel like my hidden lair. Finding out I was the only guest booked in for lunch and that the entire restaurant was there to serve me felt..... a little strange.

Getting the best table in the house on this occasion was no problem.

After a kitchen tour and chat lunch began.

Perhaps the oddest course consisted of "pop rocks" and caviar. When I asked Chef Pedro Subijana if this dish was genius or madness, he replied, through an interpreter, "a little of both."

I personally don't think it matched the rest of the cooking and deserved a place in this menu.

Especially when earthy dishes like a "mushroom flatbread" appear, or stuffed squid, or an other worldly chorizo and pepper stew.

Herbs are a big part of the presentation and I appreciated the ability to literally paint a protein with sauce using a bouquet. Quite a thoughtful touch to the menu.

The Single Table pays in full for all meals it posts about.