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Blog
Welcome to the Blog! It features stories from the road, service tips, food talk and dining experiences. Have an idea for an entry? E-mail me at ceo@thesingletable.com.
Entries labeled "Single Table Experience" are seatings at chef counters.


3* visits in the past year, 17 restaurants, 6 countries
Odette - Singapore ZEN - Singapore Les Amis - Singapore Azurmendi - Spain Akelarre - Spain Arzak - Spain ABaC - Spain Disfrutar - Spain Cocina Hermanos Torres - Spain Lasarte - Spain Myojaku - Japan L'Effervescence - Japan Joël Robuchon - Japan (Tokyo) AM par Alexandre Mazzia - France Mirazur - France Osteria Francescana - Italy Steirereck - Austria

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L'Effervescence (Tokyo) - return visit
L'Effervescence received a promotion to a third star since my last visit, and it was a pleasure being in this serene dining room once again. So, what's changed? Plenty. First, Chef Shinobu Namae used to put a savoury spin on a McDonald's apple pie that is now gone. Think meat in pastry stuffed inside a red, rectangular paper box. I was pleased to see it go, as this wasn't a successful dish for me and was out of place in my previous menu. Second, the tableside presentations h

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Myojaku (Tokyo) - Single Table Experience
Myojaku was promoted to three stars in the most recent guide, so I was curious as to how this restaurant was elevated. What I found was a deep respect and reverence to ingredients, and focused cooking along with some technical feats. As you can see from the photo below, the dining room, with its beige and cream colors is rather stark, save for the branch showing its sign of life. The counter was hushed throughout the meal, perhaps as a nod to cultural heritage. As the only we

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Oniku Karyu (Tokyo) - Single Table Experience
There are two starred restaurants in Tokyo designated as having "beef specialties." One is Jo, where I've been twice, and the other is Oniky Karyu, where I had the privilege to dine recently. I was the lead instigator of a rowdy, by Tokyo standards anyway, group of Westerners who kicked back and had genuine fun at this meal with the affable Chef Haruka Katayanagi, observing his precision in wagyu cookery. The opening broth could have been a boring sipper, but not here. This c

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Makiyaki Ginza Onodera (Tokyo) - Single Table Experience, return visit
In a sea of great food in Tokyo, I've recommended Makiyaki Ginza Onodera more than any other restaurant in the past three years. Why? Starred restaurant? Check Not a "famous spot you must check out?" Check A counter where everything is prepared in front of you, combined with a wood-fired tasting menu? Check. A tiny space with amazing personal service and a fun, interactive chef? Check Absolute delicious French-style cuisine with a Tokyo tilt? Check. You can read about my las

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DEN (Tokyo) - Single Table Experience, return visit
What a pleasure to be back at DEN to experience the soul-satisfying cooking of Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa, and spectacular hospitality by his wife Emi Hasegawa, and team. Of course, the star of the show is Puchi Jr., who gets some plushie treats when I visit. You can read about my visits to Den Kushi Flori, their sister restaurant, and a restaurant I enthusiastically recommend: https://www.thesingletable.com/post/den-kushi-flori-tokyo-single-table-experience-return-visit https://www

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Lasarte - seven 3* in one week
The final stop of this gastronomique journey took me to Lasarte where Paolo Casagrande upholds the 3* standard set by Martín Berasategui. I substituted the risotto listed below for a beet and caviar risotto, and remarked to Chef Paolo, "Does Mauro Colagreco know about this?" Chef Colagreco being the one who spread beet + caviar around the world. A menu to take home was not presented at the end of the meal, and service was exceptionally formal. Although the surroundings were

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Cocina Hermanos Torres - seven 3* in one week, return visit
What an absolute pleasure to be back at Cocina Hermanos Torres to see the brothers' creativity and technique on full display. When I first visited in 2024, the restaurant made a lasting impression and I couldn't wait to return. On this visit, there was a business meeting in a PDR complete with spreadsheets and charts on a large monitor. After finishing, they adjourned for lunch with flowing wine and chef demonstrations at their table. I have but one question. Are they hiring

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Disfrutar - seven 3* in one week, return visit, NEW PERSONAL WORLD #1
:) Disfrutar features a choice of menus entitled "Classic," showcasing greatest hits, and "Festival," relying heavily on a menu-of-the-moment approach. Upon my return visit, when I was seated and presented with a piece of paper that read "SPECIAL MENU," I knew great care had been taken to ensure an extraordinary experience. The meal exceeded even that expectation. Combined with my virst visit and this visit, Disfrutar has earned the number one spot on my world rankings , the

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ABaC - seven 3* in one week, 4th visit
Who knew celebrity TV Chef Jordi Cruz is shy? This, it's explained, is a reason why he doesn't regularly work the tables at his 3* dining room ABaC . This was my fourth visit, and I hadn't met Cruz on my previous three. Since he has played a large part in my appreciation of gastronomy, I politely insisted that if he was in residence I could say a quick hello. Cruz, going back more than a decade, has set a standard for me in creativity, use of ingredients and storytelling. Mor

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Arzak - seven 3* in one week
Having a thoughtful conversation with Elena Arzak about replating silver flatware from her restaurant wasn't on my bingo card. But here we were, in her eponymous restaurant, where she tells-it-like-it-is and holds court to welcome guests, many of whom are old friends. I like Chef Arzak. The day began with a comprehensive tour of the "home" from lab to wine cellar. I appreciated this extra touch as it was delightful, insightful, and did not need to be as extensive as it was.

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Akelarre - seven 3* in one week
I always wanted to be a Bond villain. Driving up through the winding roads outside San Sebastian to reach Akelarre , you can't help but think that. Stepping out on the terrace to a panoramic view of the sea made it feel like my hidden lair. Finding out I was the only guest booked in for lunch and that the entire restaurant was there to serve me felt..... a little strange. Getting the best table in the house on this occasion was no problem. After a kitchen tour and chat lunch

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Azurmendi - seven 3* in one week
Azurmendi held the distinction of being the first stop on this tour of seven 3* meals in one week throughout Spain. It set a very high bar. What a delight it was to talk with Chef Eneko Atxa about his passion and projects. You can truly see his point-of-view and intentions on the plate. Due to a very late-arriving business party of 17, I had the restaurant to myself for most of the meal which allowed a free-flow conversation of ideas and information download from the marvelo

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Burnt Ends (Singapore) - Single Table Experience
"On a scale of one-to-10, how hungry are you?" "I flew 24 hours to have this dinner." "Understood." So it began. I had first met Dave Pynt in Abu Dhabi where he cooked a camel chop the size of a baby with gremolata and bone marrow bread. My second encounter was in London at what I've described HERE as the best collab meal I've ever had. When I saw him a few nights later at the 50 Best ceremony, he pointedly asked, "When are you coming to Singapore? What are you waiting for?"

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Odette (Singapore)
I first met Chef Julien Royer of 3* Odette in 2022 at a 50 Best collaboration in Abu Dhabi. The meal was a stellar example of deeply rooted French cooking with familiar, modern Asian touches. When I saw Chef again at 50 Best in London, later that year, I was urged to stop dreaming about visiting Odette, and actually pay it a visit in peson. Fast forward, and I'm finally seated in this temple of Royer's deeply-personal cuisine. The dining room has undergone a refurb for Odett

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Erth (Abu Dhabi)
It's been an arms race in the UAE for restaurant recognition with 50 Best moving in before the tire guide muscled its way to the pole position. This was my fourth trip to the always wonderful UAE, but first since stars had been awarded. Erth , a 1* Abu Dhabi, is a true representative of refined Emerati cuisine served in the Qasr Al Hosn cultural complex. Do yourself a favour and spend some time either before or after your meal admiring the exhibits. There's even a Ducasse coo

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La Tour d'Argent (Paris), quack quack
Legendary La Tour d'Argent in Paris is known worldwide for its duck. Mine was overcooked. When you serve more than a million ducks, I guess that has to happen. But what I'd rather talk about was a point of confusion. The first drop off after snacks consisted of tomato soup. Bread was being passed around the dining room and I didn't receive any. I found that odd and off putting. Except it wasn't the first course at all. It was an amuse, to be followed by..... another tomato "

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Guy Savoy (Paris), 5th visit
What a pleasure to be back at my usual table in my favourtie lunch spot in the world. Guy Savoy , who you can actually find in his restaurants, has not only been banging out hits for decades, but constantly reinvents and reinterprets key seasonal ingredients. It's worth the journey just to see what he'll do with a summer tomato this year. I am always looked after, astutely, by Gregory, who has never refused a request, and has always adapted a menu to my liking. The dishes, do

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200th * restaurant, a regrettable meal at Epicure (Paris)
When I got out of my rideshare, throngs of young women started to scream. The reception wasn't meant for me, but for the K Pop star who was in residence for Fashion Week at Le Bristol. Unfortunately, this was the highlight of the evening. Due to a scheduling snafu by another restaurant, my 200th * restaurant reverted to Epicure which I chose for several reasons: The 100th anniversary of Hotel Le Bristol, a recent change in chef to Arnaud Faye, and a previous meal at The Lane

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Nour (Stockholm)
Nordic Japanese? Sign me up. I had been intrigued with any restaurant in Sweden that features a truffle okonomiyaki (although not served at this visit) and puts a bottle of Hibiki on its home page. What followed was a beautiful meal in an absolutely stunning location. Many restaurants shuffle you from room-to-room between snacks, the main event and sweets. This former home at Norrlandsgatan 24, now Nour , is the elegant, relaxed "private club" setting where you want to spend

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