Cornus (London) - 1* up and comer

I had heard rumblings about Cornus being new on the scene, and I was frankly surprised at how good the food was being put out in such a large space, and also quite a value for the ingredients and technique involved.

Having opted for the six course menu, you're never wrong in starting me off with a canapé that has shaved cheese to wake up the pallet.

The pea and ham velouté: silky and porky in flavour. The trotter perfectly crispy, destined to be broken up amongst the coup, and married with the creaminess of the foie. Thank goodness for the bitter greens on top to round out the dish.

The cod was refined/rustic in the ingredient choices, with the veg being the star next to the flaky, juicy filet.

When it comes to chicken in fine dining, it's all about the jus. The version here could not be improved and had the perfect viscosity to attach to the meat. It also didn't hurt the dish was bathed in truffle.

With apricot in season, this stone fruit dessert was appreciated for it's complexity in both preparation and texture.

My only disappointment was chef did some table touches but did not come over to say hello. It seems he was only chatting with regulars.

While I can't be a regular, geographically, I would certainly return.

This meal was fine dining comfort food personified, and elevated British gastronomy in a perfectly relaxed, homey atmosphere.

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