Odette (Singapore)

I first met Chef Julien Royer of 3* Odette in 2022 at a 50 Best collaboration in Abu Dhabi. The meal was a stellar example of deeply rooted French cooking with familiar, modern Asian touches.

When I saw Chef again at 50 Best in London, later that year, I was urged to stop dreaming about visiting Odette, and actually pay it a visit in peson.

Fast forward, and I'm finally seated in this temple of Royer's deeply-personal cuisine.

The dining room has undergone a refurb for Odette's 10th anniversary, so the picture below will likely not match your experience. While housed in the National Gallery, the decor is anything but a dated museum piece. I can't wait to see how it will evolve.

Although the snacks are knockouts, something that will stick with me is the butter. Of course, I was expecting the breads to be exceptional. What I wasn't expecting was the most delightful, herbaceous, grassy butter I've ever had the pleasure spreading on a crusty piece of bread. It is simply addictive throughout the meal.

The aji crudo was beautifully presented, but what made it interesting was the incorporation of almond, not just for the texture, but to add that earthy/nuttiness to the bright dish.

The smoked egg is something you find on various menus, but the chorizo was the main attraction. The crumble rendered to a point where it brought depth of flavour without making the dish heavy.

The only dish that didn't hit the bullseye for me was the supplement course of onions. While it was fine, the vin juane felt too "light" and I wanted flavour beyond "white wine." It was a surprising, almost too-delicate version. No, I'm not expecting "french onion soup" or a dark, rich, beef stock.

Things rebounded quickly with one of the best courses of the night. While you may see abaolone paired with foie gras in French, and especially Chinese cooking, this bowl brought a shockingly good and unique flavour using pork broth and yuzu. While I still can't wrap my head around this masterpiece, it hit every note and was in perfect balance with its restraint.

Later, it's on to the legendary pepper-crusted pigeon. I had this in Abu Dhabi, save for one element, which absolutely made my night in Singapore. The pigeon organ bao (not pictured) will always stay with me. The preparation is perfection. Gamey, hint of sweetness, glutinous. I've had second preparations of pigeons all over the world using organs, liver, etc. This sets the bar.

A note on the service. I couldn't help but think this was one of the best run dining rooms, and affable teams, I've ever seen. Everyone, at every position, was simply wonderful. It reminded me of Steirereck. Funny enough, the next night, when Odette retained 3*, it was also awarded the Service Award for the Singapore guide. Well earned and well deserved.

It's an overused cliché in the industry, by a restaurant, a diner, a critic, to say they see the "childhood" or "story" of a chef in their food. In this situation, it's apt. While Chef Royer weaves personal, written narratives throughout the meal, it's what's on the plate that gives us keen, delicious, thoughtful insights into him.

The restaurant, the cooking, the service, and the soul of Restaurant Odette is nothing short of magnificent.

*I have purposely not told you about Odette, the remarkable person, because I think it's best you experience the story telling in person as the night unfolds.

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