Frog by Adam Handling (London) - Return Visit, deserving of * promotion

I may not be able to see in to the future, but I've got a solid track record at identifying restaurants that are undervalued in the * department, and will some day be promoted (Steirereck in Vienna, AbAC in Barcelona, Humble Chicken in London to name a few).

I happened to dine at my highest rated 1* restaurants back-to-back, the first being Frog by Adam Handling in London, the other being Adam/Albin in Stockholm, and I'm pleased to say both are clearly worthy of a second star.

You can see my first experience at Frog here.

This time I switched to lunch and was once again seated at the best place in the house, at the counter directly in front of the pass. Head Chef Cleverson Cordeiro oversaw the brigade, and our thoughtful interactions continue to be part geeking out over food, and part business operations in the fine dining world.

My only regret at this meal was opting for the lunch menu instead of the extended tasting menu, which looked divine.

Handling weaves his personal story throughout the menu.

The first highlight is always a play on chicken from Handling's childhood, and the some of the accompaniments changed since my last visit. Here, the chicken butter, with chicken salt, is perfection personified of fat and creaminess with the crusty, hearty bread. The jus, sticky and viscous. The "bon bon" of chicken liver, the perfect consistency of sweetness on the outside with gaminess on the inside.

Spice control is lent to the lamb dish while the cauliflower truly shines amongst the plate. A "warming" sensation with this plate.

The bakewell, with truffle honey, may be the best thing on the menu. It can not be missed under any circumstance.

Handling recently became a full-fledged chocolatier, opening up a retail space near by and the effort truly shows in the mignardises section.

Service is exactly what you want it to be: professional, relaxing, knowledgeable, warm and with attention to a killer wine library.

Frog will (sorry, had to say it) eventually leap it's way to a second star. But until then, just enjoy that you can have a ** experience at this exquisite gem.

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