250th * meal, The Ritz, London

I bought a tie for five quid at Amazon.

Having recently moved, and sold or donated the majority of my haberdashery, I found myself without the mandatory tie to go with my jacket for the 250th * meal at the Ritz in London.

Promoted to two stars in 2025, the same year as Humble Chicken, this was the perfect time to check out, and pour over, what brought this legendary establishment to that level.

The maitre d'hotel asked how I had heard about the restaurant, and I cheekily replied, "Because Andy Hayler gets his post delivered here he dines so often."

Clearly, the maitre d'hotel had heard a similar line before.

While I won't be scoring each dish out of 20, or going in to excruciatingly, lovely detail about the wine list, I will share some impressions.

While the cooking won't set the world on fire for reshaping gastronomy, there is something be said, loudly, for world-class technique and flavour rooted in the bible of Escoffier.

The foie ballotine is exactly what you want in texture and sweet tartness. Nothing is overworked as can be the case with this type of preparation.

The last of the summer tomatoes danced in a perfectly clean and umami-driven tomato water. While not to the same level as Guy Savoy's annual homage to the tomato, this version held its own.

This was of one of the finest turbot dishes I've had with a bright and crunchy asparagus stalk that could be cut cleanly. No fibers tearing off here.

Of course, the dinner, and show, wouldn't be complete without the pigeon press and all the fanfare that accompanies it.

While I won't go the hundreds-year-old process, this was one of the great pigeon dishes in the world. My top three now include this, Alleno, and Kei, both in Paris. Obviously, it's all about the sauce. This jus was perfectly sticky, savoury, sweet, felt a delicious influence from the port, and married perfectly to the succulent meat. Making a different appearance, this white asparagus was the best I've had since L'Arpege.

Service was congenial, timed well, and the floor traffic was well executed. The team had a vast knowledge not only about the ingredients and preparations, but the history of the luxurious room.

My only let down was the follwing:

I had been asked during the booking process if I was celebrating anything special, as restaurants comonly enquire. I had responded that yes indeed I would be celebrating something special, if the timing worked out, and I would let them know on the day.

I wasn't trying to be cryptic. I just couldn't guarantee this would be my 250th * meal, as schedules often get shifted.

Fast forward to dinner and no one bought it up. Even though I said I would let them know, the subject still should have been broached by the team.

So I casually dropped that I had chosen this restaurant specifically fror the 250th * meal. There was literally no response. What was I expecting? Not a comp glass of wine or a candle in my dessert. I wouldn't expect that, nor would I like that.

But, Chef was in residence that evening doing table touches (it would appear for regulars), and never came over. That, or the customary tour of the kitchen would have been appropriate.

Speaking of Humble Chicken, during my first dinner there, when I mentioned it happened to be the 100th one star restaurant I've dined at, the team surprised me by signing my menu (specificilly referencing the 100th) and presenting me with a small take-home gift. Completely unexpected, unnecessary, but that's how you do it.

Circling back to Andy, The Ritz dining room is safley on my personal world rankings list and scores a 18/20.

The Single Table pays in full for all meals it posts about.