Arzak - seven 3* in one week

Having a thoughtful conversation with Elena Arzak about replating silver flatware from her restaurant wasn't on my bingo card.

But here we were, in her eponymous restaurant, where she tells-it-like-it-is and holds court to welcome guests, many of whom are old friends. I like Chef Arzak.

The day began with a comprehensive tour of the "home" from lab to wine cellar. I appreciated this extra touch as it was delightful, insightful, and did not need to be as extensive as it was. It was the perfect perk for dining at Arzak.

Lunch felt like San Sebastian on a plate.

Different snacks with tomato, anchovy, and pork provided the pinxtos vibe, but in a 3*.

The opening course of scallop showed great sauce work melding sweetness of pumpkin molases and apple with the umami and acidity of tomato oil.

The fried egg is a signature. But, the sardine crisp is an amazing foil to cut through the richness of the egg.

The sherry in the roasted foul had so much control that it melded perfectly with the juices cooked from bones.

Arzak also leans heavily on the pastry department with a pre-dessert and two plated desserts, the most delightful of which was apple with apple chips, puree and cider soup. Everything worked. So many times when you get an "ingredient four ways," one of them is a clunker. Not here.

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