Disfrutar - seven 3* in one week, return visit, NEW PERSONAL WORLD #1

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Disfrutar features a choice of menus entitled "Classic," showcasing greatest hits, and "Festival," relying heavily on a menu-of-the-moment approach.

Upon my return visit, when I was seated and presented with a piece of paper that read "SPECIAL MENU," I knew great care had been taken to ensure an extraordinary experience.

The meal exceeded even that expectation. Combined with my virst visit and this visit, Disfrutar has earned the number one spot on my world rankings, the first time there has been a change at the top in a decade.

The 26 courses featured a few favourties from my prior lunch, along with boundary-pushing dishes highlighting the winter bounty. New dishes to me will be denoted.

Let's begin...

I took my time with the microgreens and their flavours, from grassy to peppery, savouring each one and acknowledging the true essence of an ingredient can be sampled in its simplest form

Tomato with "caviar" cleansed the palate with this frothy concoction, but still provided a creamy sweet acid hit to get you to the next course.

Playing with your food has never been so fun. Yes, even blue food.

You are meant to smear the vegetables to create your own colourscape, inspired by the wine label on offer with this course. After a demonstration by your server, you are invited to mix-and-match as you see fit.

I, naturally, tried each colour individually before combining. Once mixed, my palate danced with cool vegetal notes.

Of course, not wanting to waste a morsel, I also ate my server's demonstration plate . I don't think anyone noticed. NEW DISH

A heaping of truffle combined with burrata brought us back down from the vegetable clouds and in to the earth.

This classique is just an amazing accomplishment of frying melding cold and hot; salty caviar and tangy sour cream.

I exclaimed with glee, "The little man is back!" This time I appreciated the smoke on the butter more as it tantalized my tongue with its melty goodness.

We stay on the caviar train. The reflective box and preparation was used on my previous visit and meshed perfectly as a taste of the sea.

And what have we introduced here? Vermouth-style sake! What an absolute revelation.

Would you call this stunning creation a mixed salad? Disfrutar does, with concentrated briny notes of olive juice mixed in a way that had me wondering if this would be on the El Bulli menu if it was open today. NEW DISH

A "mushroom leaf" crackled with earthy tones...

...and brings us to another Disfrutar classsique of liquid egg yolk inside this delicate parcel with concentrated mushroom gelatin on the bottom. It is, in its essence, the perfect bites of food.

I believe this thyme soup had a heavy onion concentration. We continue to move to deeper, darker flavours and concentrations when we get to.... UPDATED DISH

this dark, black banana and pork dish that is so flavourful, so rich, so aromatic between sweet and pungent that it takes your breath away. NEW DISH

Then it's all out spoiling with the famous carbonara dish. The assembly is not pictured, but why make pasta out of wheat when you can make it so much better and translucent out of ham gelatin? This is another, one-of-a-kind, world-class dishe. Such porky and cheesy goodness.

OK. I don't like a boiled peanut. It's a sense memory that makes me nauseous. Stewed peanuts on the other hand... It had this deep, nutty flavour that lingered. NEW DISH

So we carry over the weaving of the menu to a different nut, this time pistachio. The sweetness of the beet root displayed not just in saucing, but through the small parcels of "pasta." Elegant and sweet with the incorporation of eel. NEW DISH

We continue to get slightly more delicate with apple meringue and horseradish the star of this trout dish. We're not getting sweeter here. We're getting controlled brilliance the mild heat of the fresh horseradish. NEW DISH

Next, a trotter bao, where pork makes a final appearance in deep flavours, but miraculously light on the palate and not rich or heavy at all. NEW DISH

But then we save the darkest, funkiest, lip-smacking sauce for the final savoury course. Hare sausage with mushrooms. The build of the sausage wasn't plain, ordinary or dry. Whatever spicing they used and fat incorporation (whether it was a caul net or chopped in to the mince), it was a thing of beauty. This felt like Barcelona Christmas on a plate with flavours passed down through the generations. NEW DISH

We then move to a visually-stark contrast in this "pina colada" pre-dessert to refresh the palate. NEW DISH

Followed by ice from the Pyrenes... just because I presume.... to pick up sweet flower parts. NEW DISH

Next came a honey dish with three, distinct tastes and varying levels of sweetness. NEW DISH

Which brings us to this stunning "flower explosion" NEW DISH

and Naxtamilized chocolate, even better than my pumpkin version on my last visit. It's smoked whiskey vanilla ice cream. How are you going to say no to that? Also very smart introducing a nut back in to the menu, this time hazelnut. NEW DISH

And finally, air puff filled with pastry cream, which brings us back to the memory of the caviar and sour cream dish. NEW DISH

What a feast for the eyes, senses and palate.

Although I've focused on the food here, service was absolutely note perfect. I still can't figure out how they seat the entire room, almost at the same time, and pump out perfect 25+ course meals with different menus. It's astonishing to behold. Every member of this team is a joy to watch as they interact with guests. No question or request is too big. Everyone in the dining room is important, and the coreographed ballet on the floor is spell binding.

As I departed, one of Disfrutar's chefs pulled up, wrapped tightly in a grey jacket and asked me how my lunch was. I did know who he was, but startled, I stared at him briefly in what must have seemed like a pause that lasted eternity.

He said, "It's OK! I'm one of the chefs!"

I don't remember my exact words that tumbled out next, but the question had left me speechless for the first time in my career.

The meal was so great, I was speechless.

I have never revealed my rankings of more than 150 restaurants globally, but I am proud to say Disrutar is very worthy of being at the top spot.

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